ANY WAY THE WIND BLOWS: HOW TO FIND THE BEST SNOW in HAKUBA

A country of micro-climates

One of the most mountainous countries on this planet Earth, Japan is defined by its rugged, and beautiful, mountain topography. It is these mountains that harness all the snowfall coming from the Sea of Japan, but they also bring surprising variability in depth. Sure, when it is puking, it is puking, and the best mountain to be at is the one under your feet. Nothing beats that stoke. But when it comes to snowfall, only 20 kilometres can be the difference between ankle deep fun times and waist-deep epicness. Want to know where to go to get the best powder snow in the Hakuba Valley when it’s snowing and blowing? This guide breaks it down.

WHY WIND DIRECTION MATTERS

The Hakuba Valley most commonly gets it snow from the north. But it can also come in from a more westerly direction, too. In fact, so dynamic is the local weather that it’s common to get snow from all directions to the top of the compass.

Generally, the recipe for Japow is high pressure over Siberia sending cold dry air over the Sea of Japan, straight down to Honshu. This cold dry air ‘picks up’ the moisture from the relatively warmer sea, and what you get is ‘lake effect’ snow. This is very different from snowfall in parts of the world, like Australia or New Zealand, that rely on frontal or low pressure systems for snow. You could say that Japan’s weather is more ‘climatic’. And if the wind blows in the right direction, it snows. However, even subtly small changes in wind direction – as subtle as NW, NNW, WNW and N – effect where it dumps the most.

SEEK AND YOU SHALL FIND

Northerly

In winds from the due north, the northern end of the valley resorts including Cortina, Norikura do the best. When the wind blows due south from the Sea of Japan, that moist snow-laden air is sent unimpeded to the northern end of the Hakuba Valley. Topographically, it comes up through a valley in the mountains, and rises to dump perfectly on Cortina. So, if the wind blows north, take your Hakucar rental car from Hakuba up to Cortina for an epic day. The high mountains of Happo also do well in a due northerly, too, as there aren’t too much mountainous terrain to the north of Happo grabbing all that snow. The other Hakuba resorts, to some degree, are sheltered by their neighbours in a northerly.

NORTH-WESTERLY

In a north-westerly, head to Tsugaike, Norikura and Cortina. For the same reason that Happo and its neighbours score better than others in a west-northwesterly, they score a little less in a north-westerly. It’s topography. While terrain that rises up towards your destination is great for orographic lift, too much mountain can mean that area hogs the snowfall. This is the case in a north-westerly: Happo, Goryu and 47 have some huge mountains out to the North West, while Tsugaike, Norikura and Cortina have less.

WEST-NORTHWESTERLY

As mentioned, a little change can make a big difference. A west-northwesterly is still good across the valley, but it’s typically better at Happo One, Goryu and Hakuba 47. Why’s this? Again, it’s the mountains. The sheer height of the mountains to the west and north bring something called orographic lift. But rather than getting too technical, just think of orographic lift as a snow machine. In this wind direction, head to the resorts mention and you’ll have a great day.

NORTH-NORTHWESTERLY

One of the best things about Hakuba is that you can head to a different resort based on wind direction. So while Cortina scores big time from a due northerly, a north-northwesterly generously shares the love around a little bit more. Snow from this direction suits Tsugaike, Norikura and Cortina, so it’s a great day to visit one of the best mountains in the valley for all types of skier and snowboarder, Tsugaike.

How to find out the wind direction?

You can’t really beat the Windy app and website for live weather, especially wind direction. Use the Japan Meteorlogical Agency for snowfall. Look for stations in Otari for Cortina, and Hakuba for the middle of the valley including Happo, Goryu and 47. Remembering the measuring stations are way down in the valley and they don’t collect as much snowfall as on the mountains. You can times the snowfall figure by multiples to get some idea.

HOW DO YOU GET AROUND AND GET THE BEST SNOW?

Beat the queues, traffic, and crammed buses. Hire a rental car from Hakucar.com to get the best snow and fullest experiences in the Hakuba Valley.